Invigorating Under-Eye Cream

Skin Care

Invigorating Under-Eye Cream

By: TOM BRANNA

Editor

Ingredients

%

Phase A

Deionized water
46.95

Dissolvine GL-47-S (Coast Southwest, Akzo Nobel Functional Chemicals LLC) (Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate)
0.10

DL-Panthenol 50% (Coast Southwest) (Panthenol)
2.00

Glycerin (Coast Southwest) (Glycerin)
1.50

Sorbitol 70% (Coast Southwest) (Sorbitol)
4.00

Phase B

Endimate 33V (Coast Southwest) (Caprylic/capric triglyceride)
4.00

Rice Bran Oil (Coast Southwest) (Rice (oryza sativa (rice) bran oil)
1.70

Extra Virgin Olive Oil (Coast Southwest) (Olea europaea (olive) fruit oil)
1.70

Sunflower Oil (Coast Southwest) (Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil)
2.00

Jojoba Oil (Coast Southwest) (Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil)
2.00

Olivatis 11 (Coast Southwest, Medolla Italia s.r.l) (Polyglyceryl-3 olivate phosphate)
5.00

Endimulse GMS-SE (Coast Southwest) (Glyceryl stearate)
1.00

Glyceryl monolaurate (Coast Southwest) (Glycerin laurate)
5.00

Vitamin E (Coast Southwest) (Tocopherol)
0.50

Phase C

TEA 99% (Coast Southwest) (Triethanolamine)
0.80

Phase D

BNpoly UV Crystal TR22 (Coast Southwest) (Boron nitride (and) titanium dioxide (and) dimethicone (and) isododecane (and) ethylene/VA copolymer)
2.00

Ultrastarch P21C (Coast Southwest, Ultra Chemical) (Zea mays (corn) starch)
0.80

Phase E

Deionized water
9.00

Hydrasoft Moist (Coast Southwest) (Glyceryl polymethacrylate (and) propylene glycol)
2.00

Phase F

EndiMoist HA Solution (Coast Southwest) (Sodium hyaluronate)
1.00

Phase G

Sharomix 703 (Coast Southwest, Sharon Laboratories)(Potassium sorbate (and) sodium benzoate (and) benzyl alcohol (and) water)
0.80

Phase H

Polysorbate 20 (Coast Southwest) (Polysorbate 20)
1.00

Fragrance
0.15

Phase I

FiFlow BTX (Coast Southwest) (Perfluorohexane (and) perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene (and) perfluorodecalin (and) perfluorodimethylcyclohexane)
5.00

Procedure

Add phase A to main vessel and begin heating to 70-75°C with sheer mixing. PIn a separate vessel add phase B with sheer mixing and heat to 70-75°C. Phase B will reach full clarity at temperature. Once both phases are uniform and at temperature, add phase B slowly to phase A under high sheer mixing. Once uniform, begin cool down. Continue high sheer mixing while batch cools. Once batch reaches 60°C, add phase C with high sheer mixing. Batch will thicken slightly. Once temperature reaches 45-50°C, add phase D while homogenizing batch (3000-3500rpm). Transfer batch to sheer mixer. Premix phase E and add to batch with sheer mixing. Add phase F to batch under sheer mixing. Add phase G to batch under sheer mixing. Premix phase H and add to batch under sheer mixing. After 24 hours add phase I to batch under a slow sweep. Transfer to final container upon uniformity.